Historic villages and local traditions: A Journey to the heart of the Brembana Valley

On a chilly October morning I set out for Camerata Cornello, an ancient village along Val Brembana, it is known for its storied past and stone-paved paths. Camerata Cornello was once a vital stop along the Via Mercatorum, a medieval trade route that connected Lombardy’s interior to the Alps. Its streets still echo with tales of merchants and travellers. The village is home to a captivating destination in the heart of its historic centre: a beautifully preserved medieval house that offers a perfect blend of tradition and modernity.

The charming property of La Tana del Tasso is an ideal retreat for a romantic escape or a relaxing getaway, whether solo or with family. Inside, the details are carefully curated to preserve an authentic medieval feel, while also providing modern comforts. It’s a place where old-world charm meets contemporary amenities, striking a harmonious balance that invites guests to fully immerse themselves in the region’s rich culture, natural beauty, and time-honoured traditions. In addition to its accommodations, the space is also equipped for conferences and business events, making it an exceptional setting for companies seeking an inspiring environment to work or hold team-building sessions amidst historical elegance and scenic surroundings.

From there, we headed to Branzi, a charming village renowned for its artisanal cheeses and alpine landscapes. Surrounded by mountains, Branzi is a popular base for numerous treks, including the trail to Laghi Gemelli (Twin Lakes), a stunning hike that rewards trekkers with panoramic views of two pristine alpine lakes nestled between towering peaks. Other trails lead through dense pine forests and past waterfalls, providing opportunities for all levels of hikers to explore the region’s natural beauty. In Branzi, we also visited a local cheese maker who specializes in Formai de Mut, a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese unique to Val Brembana. The earthy scent of aged cheeses filled the cellars, and we tasted slices of Formai de Mut, savoring its nutty, creamy flavors that seem to capture the very essence of the mountains.

Our final stop was the House of Harley Quinn, a quirky museum dedicated to the traditional masks of the region, which are an essential part of local culture and history. While the name recalls a modern pop culture character, the museum itself celebrates the ancient art of mask-making in Lombardy, showcasing the styles and symbolism that have been passed down for generations. Each mask represents a piece of regional folklore, and our guide explained how these unique faces and expressions have played a role in local festivities and performances for centuries. The vibrant and imaginative designs added a playful touch to our day, bridging past and present in an unexpected way.

As we wrapped up our day, I was left with a kaleidoscope of impressions. These villages offered a journey rich in culture, natural beauty, and tradition. And made me fall even more in love with Val Brembana and made me wish to come back soon.

San Pellegrino Terme greeted us with its characteristic Art Nouveau elegance and air of nostalgia. It is known worldwide for its mineral-rich waters. This spa town in the Val Brembana was once a prime destination for the European elite, who came to bask in its therapeutic spas and enjoy the grandeur of its architecture. We started our day with a leisurely stroll along Viale Papa Giovanni, taking in the meticulously designed facades and manicured gardens.

At the heart of San Pellegrino Terme stands the Grand Hotel, a century-old masterpiece that has become an emblem of the town’s opulent past. It was in 1904 and remains an architectural marvel. It was once the setting for grand balls, gatherings of aristocrats, and lavish events that defined the Belle Époque. The hotel has been closed for decades, but to our delight, we were able to enter its beautifully restored ground floor, which has recently been opened to visitors. Walking inside, we marvelled at the high ceilings, intricately painted frescoes, and glittering chandeliers that evoke the opulence of a bygone era.

Our guide shared tales of the hotel’s illustrious guests and glamorous past, and I could almost picture the elegantly dressed visitors of the early 20th century walking through the same halls. The careful restoration allowed us to step back in time, savouring a taste of the grandeur that once defined this Belle Époque gem. Afterward, we enjoyed a visit to the nearby Terme di San Pellegrino, where the spa facilities have been updated with a modern touch, yet still preserve the timeless charm of the town.

In the afternoon, we set off to Dossena, a picturesque village up in the mountains. Our main destination was the historic Dossena mines, which has historically been a vital source of minerals for the region. These mines date back to the Roman times, and as we explored the cool tunnels, we were surrounded by centuries-old stone walls that seemed to echo with the stories of miners who had worked there over the years. Our guide described the mining techniques that were used, as well as the challenges faced by miners who laboured in these dark, narrow passages. It was a fascinating glimpse into the hard work and ingenuity of the past. At present it is also possible to hold conferences or meetings inside the mines, thanks to a small auditorium like opening with benches and podium. We came to know that the company Lamborghini had one such meeting there. 

From the mines, we made our way to the nearby Ponte del Sole, a suspension bridge spanning 505 meters and offering sweeping views over the valley. This is one of Italy’s longest suspension bridges and has quickly become a symbol of the region. Very safe to cross with carabiners, although trips must be booked in advance through VisitDossena. Standing on the bridge, we were surrounded by the incredible natural beauty of the valley, with dense forests and lush meadows stretching out below. The thrill of crossing this swaying bridge made for a fitting end to our day, leaving us with a sense of awe for the landscapes and history we had encountered.

The journey from San Pellegrino Terme to Dossena was filled with rich contrasts—the grand elegance of the Belle Époque, the gritty history of the mines, and the breathtaking views from il Ponte del Sole. Each place offered its own story and unique charm, making the day forever etched in our memories.