IngleseOrnica and Valtorta: a journey through history, traditions and alpine authenticity.
On a crisp autumn morning, I found myself in Zogno, ready to meet a colleague
for a journey to the secluded villages of Ornica and Valtorta. Our destination
was the Via del Ferro hiking path, a trail I had read about on the VisitBrembo
website, the destination management organization for Val Brembana. As we
drove, the views shifted with every twist of the road, revealing sweeping
landscapes that transitioned with each tunnel we passed. By the time we reached
Ornica, a sense of tranquillity had settled over me.
Our hike began at the Santuario della Madonna del Frassino church in Ornica,
where we met the group and our guides. Standing by the church, the guide
shared stories of Ornica’s rich history and the valley we were about to enter,
known as Val d’Inferno, or “the Hell Valley.” This valley was once clouded
with smoke from centuries-old ironworking that sustained the community.
Today, however, lying at the base of Tre Signori peak it’s a serene haven, a
place where dense forests and autumn colours paint an idyllic scene.
The trail followed the rushing stream, whose powerful flow had historically
fuelled Ornica’s iron forges. As we trekked uphill, autumn's warm palette
enveloped us, and the forest’s silence only emphasized the crunch of leaves
underfoot. Small streams crossed our path, lending a sense of adventure, and
soon the forest began to thin, revealing old huts. These huts, once active forges,
are now used by shepherds tending the land. Our guide pointed out crops
flourishing in this valley—saffron, nuts, and berries—products of a community
tied deeply to the land.
Ornica is also home to Lombardy’s first Albergo Diffuso, a unique
accommodation style where rooms are scattered among village houses, allowing
guests to immerse themselves in local life. It’s a fitting concept for Ornica.
Further along, we reached an opening in Val d’Inferno, where a rifugio
(mountain hut) awaits those seeking an extended stay. We paused here to enjoy
breakfast, admiring the views and swapping stories with fellow hikers. We also
realized the potential for camping and stargazing. I couldn’t help but wonder
how it may feel to stay in a place like that for longer durations.
The surrounding
hills, pines and the natural sound has a healing effect which becomes stronger as
one stays on, waking and sleeping in tune with the sounds and lights of the
valley.
After retracing our steps back to Ornica, we journeyed to Valtorta, a village rich
in cultural heritage and history. At an eatery in the centre, we were treated to a
lunch showcasing Valtorta’s local produce.
Here, we sampled three distinct cheeses: Formai de Mut, a firm mountain cheese; Stracchino, with a rich and creamy texture; and Agri di Valtorta, a softer cheese that paired perfectly with a selection of marmalades, each one enhancing the flavors of the cheeses. Before leaving, we visited one of Valtorta’s most unique attractions: the
Ecomuseum of Valtorta.
This cultural treasure was created by Angela Marabese and her family with the goal of preserving and celebrating the local heritage.
At its heart is the ethnographic museum "Alta Valle Brembana," set in the historic
"Casa della Pretura," a medieval building that once served as the residence of
the vicar and the town hall. Thanks to Marabese’s vision, the museum has
become a window into the region's past, displaying a fascinating collection of
tools and artifacts from everyday life.
These relics were not just collected; they were uncovered by residents, who
searched through their own attics and basements, finding a thousand objects that
capture the essence of rural traditions. Visitors can now explore exhibits
including a functional water mill and other artifacts of daily life from times
gone by.
Ornica and Valtorta each offered a glimpse into Val Brembana's traditions,
where landscape and history blend beautifully. It is an exploration of the
resilience, craftsmanship, and rural legacy of Lombardy’s hidden valleys.
Banerjee Bihan
Student of Planning and Management of Tourism Systems - Unibg